Raincoat flickers to rhythm of rain

A coat that glows when it rains has been created by a US-based designer.

Elise Co, of design and technology firm Aeolab in Los Angeles, will be discussing the latest version of her Puddlejumper coat at a textiles show in France this month.

Puddlejumper is a luminescent, nylon raincoat that turns the prospect of walking in the rain into an opportunity for play and performance, says Co, a former professor of new media.

It’s coated with PVC and has water sensors on its back and left sleeve.

The sensors are wired via interior electronics to electroluminescent panels on the front of the jacket.

When water hits one of the sensors, the corresponding lamp lights up on the front, creating a flickering pattern of illumination that mirrors the rhythm of rainfall, says Co.

“You get a pattern of lights that really looks like water falling,” she says.

Co says the electroluminescent panels are of the same kind of material used as backlighting for phones.

The material is usually purchased pre-manufactured as plastic sheets that are cut up and wired together.

But Co mixed up the chemicals that make the panels and silk-screened them onto the jacket by hand, and hand printed the water sensors onto the jacket.

Co will help facilitate a workshop on wearable technology in Canberra next year called reSkin, where she will discuss her work.

“Although technology has the bad rap of being dry or technical, at the very least, intimidating, it is great to illuminate how creative a process it is, and how doable,” she says.

“I especially like the mixture of wearable plus technology because clothing and accessories on the body are so expressive and design oriented, not only visually but also in terms of materiality and usability and wearability.”

Co says her raincoats are still prototypes but the fact they are made of industrial materials mean they could be developed further.

“There is no reason why they couldn’t be made durable enough to be worn normally,” she says.

“It would be a matter of doing tests and tweaking the construction process to make sure they’re protected well.”

day-for-night (modular extensible reconfigurable)

“I defy anyone to design a hat, coat or dress that hasn’t been done before…The only new frontier left in fashion is the finding of new materials” - Paco Rabanne 1966

Day-for-Night, an hommage to Paco Rabanne as well as a celebration of the beauty of electronics, is a modular, reconfigurable dress comprised of 444 white circuit boards (although the number changes as the dress can get longer or shorter). Each tile is designed in such a way as to accommodate a solar cell, a RGB LED, or a photocell, and jumper connectors (in the form of 0 Ohm resistors). A control board provides power, communicates with the tiles, and links to a computer via RF. The dress is completely modular both in terms of software and hardware. A USB board provides virtual serial port to Windows, Macs and Linux while an on board microcontroller relays data to and from the dress via a 2.4 GHz RF link. This allows for programmability (and status monitoring) from the computer side in the form of simple commands and responses via the virtual serial port.

Currently a Max program has been developed that provides a graphical user interface for programming the tiles, while a Flash and Java program are part of future developments. Future directions Experimenting with different interconnections (ring sizes & materials) and final shapes Adding new electronic components (GPS, OLED, accelerometer) Adding a “brain board” adjacent to the existing control board to allow programmability by third parties Updating micro-controller code wirelessly Publishing complete source code, schematics, board layouts, test software, assembly techniques Enhancing testing/sequencing software (MAX, Flash, Java) Applying techniques and methodology learned to new materials and processes.

See Day-for-Night in the International Herald Tribune & in the Boston Globe .

Day-for-Night was partially completed during a residency at FAI (First Andros International) organised by Nice and Fit Gallery, Berlin. Day-for-Night had its debut on the catwalk of the Unravel: SIGGRAPH 2006 Fashion Show - video coming soon! Also on view at Sartorial Flux, curated by Valerie LaMontagne, at the A + D Gallery in Chicago from September 7th to October 21st.

Chalayan: Transforming Clothes

Earlier this month, Hussein Chalayan wowed the audience at his Paris runway show with five dresses that automatically transformed in shape and style (video + interview). Zippers closed, cloth gathered, and hemlines rose–all without human assistance. Beneath each model’s skirt was a computer system designed by the London-based engineering and concept-creation firm 2D3D. Rob Edkins, director of 2D3D, talked to Technology Review about how the computers controlled the clothing with motors and wires.

Technology Review: What was your vision for the clothes in the latest Chalayan show?

Rob Edkins: He gave us a series of drawings: five dresses which morphed through three decades. Together with him we developed a means by which we could move the dresses into the various shapes of those three decades. It took a lot of R&D before we arrived at a solution.

With the first dress, the girl walked on in a 1906 costume, and it morphed from 1906 to 1916 and then to 1926. So she ended up having a beaded flapper dress of the twenties. The next dress was from 1926, and it evolved from 1936 to 1946, and so on. The final dress was 1986, 1996, and then 2007. So there were five dresses, and each dress [morphed through] three decades.

A lot of [the transformation] was unbelievably subtle. While you were watching something happen down around her waist, something else was happening on her shoulder. A little fabric might roll up and become a sort of half sleeve.

TR: One of the Chalayan dresses featured a rising hemline and a bustling of the skirt at the back. How did you make that dress transform?

RE: Basically, the dresses were driven electronically by controlled, geared motors. We made, for want of a better term, little bum pads for the models. So on their buttocks were some hard containers, and within these containers we had all the battery packs, controlling chips–the microcontrollers and microswitches–and little geared motors. The motors we used were tiny, about a third of the size of a pencil and nine millimeters in diameter. Each of the motors had a little pulley, and the pulley was then attached to this monofilament wire which was fed through hollow tubes sewn into the corset of the dress.

Some of the corsets were very complicated. They had 30 or 40 of these little tubes running everywhere, carrying these little cables, each doing its little job, lifting things up or releasing little linked metallic plates. There was a huge amount of stuff going on beneath the clothes.

TR: On another dress, the zipper on the front of the bodice closed automatically. What technology was involved?

RE: We drew a magnet up on a string. The [monofilament] was sewn very delicately into the hem of the fabric and then over her shoulder and down her back.

TR: A lot of nontraditional materials were used in the show. One dress seemed to have a skirt made of plastic cards that automatically rose up off the body, shrunk, and then changed color, from white to silver. What was that dress made out of and how did it work?

RE: It was all precontrolled on a microcontroller, on a timed sequence. We set the sequence just before the model exited out onto the stage. We hit an “on” switch, and off she walked. At the appropriate moment the panels were all released and pulled down … again with cables.

TR: Are these dresses for sale?

RE: No, no. Definitely not. I believe that these dresses are going to eventually find themselves in a museum.

TR: Where do you go from here? Will you be creating new designs or licensing the technology you’ve developed?

RE: That’s entirely up to Hussein or any other fashion designer who cares to commission us.

TR: Do you see any of this as the future of fashion?

RE: I’m not a fashion designer, so I can’t really comment [from a design perspective]. But [technically] I think it’s possible–it’s very possible. There’s no reason why you couldn’t have something so that instead of you having to reach down and pull something when it starts raining … it just reacts to water and a visor comes down to protect your eyes.

Via technology review.

Collection. Process + production video. More images.

A frock with a mind of its own

A dress with animated flowers on its neckline, shirt sleeves that make sounds in tune with your body language, and a hemline with a mind of its own have been developed by a Canadian researcher.

Professor Joanna Berzowska and international colleagues will discuss these and other examples of ‘wearable technology’ at a workshop in Australia next year called reSkin.

Berzowska’s flowery dress, named Kukkia, has a neckline with felt and silk flowers that open and close according to a special electronics embedded in the dress.

“I really wanted to make these dresses that have personalities, that move and behave almost like animals,” says Berzowska, who teaches computation art at Concordia University in Montreal.

The flower petals are made of silk and felt, and contain thin wires of Nitinol, an alloy of nickel and titanium.

Nitinol is a ’shape memory alloy’, which can be programmed to have different shapes at different temperatures.

When the wire heats it shrinks and pulls the petals together, closing the flower. As it cools down, the wire relaxes and the petals open.

A custom electronics board is connected by embroidered conductive thread to the flowers and makes each one open and close every 15 seconds.

The system is run on rechargeable lithium polymer batteries, originally designed for use in model aeroplanes, which are embedded in pouches in the dress.

Vilkas, with moving hemline

Another dress with a mind of its own is Vilkas, which has a hemline that goes up and down on its own.

We tend to think of consumer electronics as something we can control. But Berzowska says once you turn on the microcontroller in these dresses, you have to surrender control.

“I like how perverse it is to have a piece of wearable electronics that you can’t control,” she says.

“Perhaps they don’t do what you want them to do and they behave in unexpected ways on your body. Maybe they move at inappropriate times.”

Musical pants and sound sleeves

Berzowska also has musical clothes including musical pants that make a sound every time you take a step.

“As you’re walking through public space you can leave a whole trail of sounds behind you based on how you’re walking,” she says.

She also has ’sound sleeves’ that produce different sounds to reflect the wearer’s body language.

The sleeves produce a higher frequency sound the harder you squeeze your arms together.

If someone is feeling angry or threatened they cross their arms causing the sleeves to generated an almost painfully high pitch.

“But when you relax your arms the pitch goes down,” says Berzowska. “It almost sounds like a cat purring.”

Intimate memories

Berzowska has another outfit called Intimate Memory that record acts of physical intimacy using a microphone and a series of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) stitched in a curved line across the front.

The LEDs light up when someone touches the skirt, whispers something in the ear of the wearer, or blows on their neck.

“The number of lights represents the intensity of the intimacy event similar to the volume indicator on a stereo,” says Berzowska.

“Over time, the lights turn off, one by one, to show time elapsed since the event took place.”

Swap-O-Rama-Rama

Swap-O-Rama-Rama (http://swaporamarama.org) is happening again in NYC. Bring a bag of clothes to donate to the DYI workshops, then attend a workshop to transform any of the donated clothes into new pieces. Here are the details:

October 8th,  1pm to 8pm
$10 plus any size bag of unwanted clothing
Once inside all of the materials for creativity and all the clothes you can carry are free
All ages welcome!
Join the List: swaporamarama-subscribe@gaiatreehouse.com
Growing List of Contributing Artists & Workshops for NY Event: http://gaiatreehouse.com/nyoct2006.htm

Location: 3rd Ward  (http://www.3rdwardbrooklyn.org)
195 Morgan Ave. Brooklyn, New York
718-715 4961 (L Train to Grand St. East on Grand, Right on Morgan)
Additional Directions: http://www.3rdwardbrooklyn.org/about_us/directions.php

“There is no beauty in the finest cloth if it makes hunger and unhappiness.” Gandhi

Join in the communal process of reuse and celebrate our collective creativity! Your invited to Swap-O-Rama-Rama, a giant clothing swap and series of do-it-yourself workshops in which a community explores reuse and creativity through the recycling of used clothing.

It’s easy to move from consumer to creator! At Swap-O-Rama-Rama you’ll find a workshop an hour, each teaching a unique clothing recycling modification skill, and DIY stations where you can learn traditional crafts like embroidery, knitting, beading and appliqué. These include a sewing stations with several sewing machines run by knowledgeable clothing and costume designers; silk screening, and decoration stations for working with beads, buttons, and a variety of accouterments. This year we’ll have a team of stylist volunteers from FIT ready to help you find a new recycled look. And scrapexchange will be bringing scrap yard challenge, a techy wearable DIY event where you can add electronics to your new duds.  a You’ll also find clothing labels that celebrate our collective creativity, they read 100% Modified By Me and 100% Recycled. These are free and offered to you to sew over existing branding and reclaim your creative space from industry.

But of course the core of the swap is the gigantic piles of free clothing sorted into categories: pants, shirts, skirts, sweaters etc. These piles are the collective total of each guest’s contribution of one bag of unwanted clothes. Take home as much clothing as you can carry. Remainders go to a local women’s shelter.

The day ends with a big fashion show of 100% recycled wearables, these are the creations of our staff and our guests! If you make something fabulous that you’d like to share you’ll be invited to walk the runway too!

The first two hundred and fifty guests in the door will receive a free copy of the first issue of CRAFT magazine, a new DIY rag by the publishers of MAKE magazine. There will also be subscriptions given away as prizes for joining the fashion show. Additional prizes will be supplied by EcoArtware (http://www.eco-artware.com)

Wondering what to bring? http://gaiatreehouse.com/swapattend.htm