Fashionable Technology Book Launch in New York

Fashionable Technology Book Cover

FASHIONABLE TECHNOLOGY
THE INTERSECTION OF DESIGN, FASHION, SCIENCE, AND TECHNOLOGY by Sabine Seymour

The interplay of electronic textiles and wearable technology, wearables for short, and fashion, design and science is a highly promising and topical subject. Offered here is a compact survey of the theory involved and an explanation of the role technology plays in a fabric or article of clothing. The practical application is explained in detail and numerous illustrations serve as clarification. Over 50 well-known designers, research institutes, companies and artists, among them Philips, Burton, MIT Media Lab, XS Labs, New York University, Hussein Chalayan, Cute Circuit or International Fashion Machines are introduced by means of their latest, often still unpublished, project, and a survey of their work to date. Given for the first time is a list of all the relevant information on research institutes, materials, publications etc. A must for all those wishing to know everything about fashionable technology.
http://www.fashionabletechnology.org

PROJECT WALKWAY + FASHIONABLE TECHNOLOGY BOOK LAUNCH
NEW YORK
Eyebeam Museum
Thursday, May 22, 2008, 6 PM
http://www.eyebeam.org
An evening about wearable technologies, featuring a runway show by the participants of Eyebeam’s Spring 2008 Girls Eye View program, followed by a discussion and book launch for Fashionable Technology by Sabine Seymour.

Digital Fashion Exhibitions in Dublin and San Francisco

Two exhibits that will delight wearable technology/interactive fashion lovers have opened last week-end. Don’t miss them if you are there or are traveling to Dublin, Ireland or San Francisco, CA.

In Dublin:
TechnoThreads is all about the creative sparks that fly when the worlds of fashion and science collide. The exhibition, running from 26th April – 26th July 2008, offers viewers a glimpse into the future of fashion in a world where Biotech and Nanotech are combined with traditional craft and Haute Couture skills. The show is curated by Marie O’Mahony, also author of the book Techno Textiles 1 and 2.

Shirts that send hugs from a loved one, spray-on dresses and semi-living clothes. This is not a scene from a science fiction movie, but from the new exhibition TechnoThreads. The exhibit showcases the work of Manel Torres, CuteCircuit, and Freedom of Creation among others.

The exhibition is split into three areas:
Conceptual Couture concentrates on the use of science by fashion designers at a conceptual level. This will range from garments using the simplest of mathematical forms to the use of fabrics with a raised surface based on Braile and semi-living garments using biotechnology.
The Aesthetics of Science will look at fashion that demonstrates the impact of science as aesthetic. This will include Space, Cyborgs and Camouflage.
Fabric Laboratory looks at the very latest in advanced textiles. Though predominately garments, some fabric lengths will also be shown in this area. Exhibits will include a spray on dress, garments made using three dimensional fabrics and one made using a three dimensional printing process

The show promises to show off the most innovative, cutting edge and exciting designers the world has to offer as well as raising issues for global debate, such as the use of tissue culture to produce semi-living clothes.

In San Francisco:
The Exploratorium projects the human imagination into the 21st century of fashion. San Francisco’s popular, museum of science, art, technology and human perception hosts a quirky evening event — Second Skin: Imaginative Designs in Digital & Analog Clothing — where science/technology and art/fashion converge at a runway fashion show on Friday, April 25, from 7–11pm. The artists’ stellar works, to be highlighted around the spaces of the museum, will be up for five months, as will “the clothesline project,” which will show off the creative works of visitors, from April 29-September 7, 2008.

Artworks include Hannah Perner-Wilson and Mika Satomi’s Massage me, an interactive, wearable computer that allows users to play a video game and massage a friend at the same time, developed in Linz, Austria; and Takehito Etani’s Masticator, headgear that gives audio-visual feedback of chewing during meals. Scott Tallenger’s Tribute to Norma Desmond dress features still and moving images from the film Sunset Boulevard. Matthew Gale’s clothing allows the wearer to “rest” anywhere with its built-in, portable neck rest.

Design and the Elastic Mind

MoMA currently has an online exhibition called Design and the Elastic Mind, presenting a wide range of art & design projects made possible by emerging technologies.  Here are some that are related to the interests of this site:

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The Fabrics of Life: Nobel Textiles project pairs five textile and fashion designers with five Nobel Laureates. As its founders, Amanda Fisher and Carole Collet, explain, “Designers fundamentally shape the way we live, while science pervades the very fabric of our lives. Nobel Textiles involves a journey into the interface between science and design, a dialogue between leading researchers in both fields.”

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Nokia Morph flexible communication and sensing device. Concept. 2007
Nokia Design explains that the aim of the Nokia Morph is “to illustrate how a portable personal device can connect its owner to the hidden information in the surrounding physical world and, at the same time, to the massive global data, information, and digital content via the Internet.” Using nanomaterials, the Nokia Morph features a bendable, stretchable surface into which several functions can be embedded, including illumination, superhydrophobicity (the ability to repel large amounts of water) and self-cleaning, energy harvesting, and sensors to detect information in the everyday world at the nanoscale. The device will have two separate units: a communications unit and a sensing unit. As Nokia explains, “The communications unit will be operable in three modes: as a clip-on earpiece or a clip on your clothing; as a standalone device for conferencing; or as a mobile handheld. The sensing unit will also operate in three modes: as a detached bendable screen which can be used as a sensor or a keyboard; as a wearable and bendable sensor unit; or as a detached sensor which can be integrated to other peripheral devices.” 

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Laser-sintered bags
Freedom Of Creation has taken rapid manufacturing into the realm of textiles. Not woven or cut and sewn, laser-sintered textiles are built three-dimensionally, layer by layer. Because the textile is first created on a computer, with its threads digitally interwoven, the fabric is easily customizable in various patterns, sizes, and colors.

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Genetic Trace: New Organs of Perception. Concept. 2006
Soares believes that in the future people will be equipped with specially designed organs that act as perception enhancers, allowing them to collect genetic material during interpersonal encounters. The need for such “complementary sensors,” she says, stems from the idea that “our evolution now relies on genetic technology rather than natural selection.” Cilia in the nails will scrape dead cells from others when shaking hands, while whiskers grown in eyebrows will increase the signals we pick up from the environment. These innovations could allow genetic siblings who may not have met identify each other, for example, and help people collect information to be used as a tool for selective mating.

Carbon nanotube textile

These days, when I hear about carbon nanotubes, I think about the space elevator people are trying to build. Could clothing benefit from such a strong material? Now a company, Nanocomp Technologies, has made a sheet of carbon nanotubes. It also conducts electricity so it could protect electronic devices from electromagnetic interference. Here are some excerpts from the article in Nature magazine.

Wear your social network

Get Wickd is quite similar though less sexy than the flirting service Urbanseeder. Get Wickd is a tech-fashion brand that sells basic clothes with codes that can link your mobile phone to any page on the web, from a Myspace profile to a Youtube movie. This technique makes it possible to wear your virtual identity, where ever you go.

wike

How it works:

1. You buy a piece of GetWickd clothing;
2. Download and install the special software on your mobile;
3. If you see somebody else, or somebody else sees you with a piece of barcode-clothing, you take a picture with your mobile phone;
4. You phone displays the personal page of the owner of the barcode.

In the late ’90’s, a fashionbrand called Skim.com was selling streetwear with a personal number which featured as a login code for a personal website of the owner. If you saw somebody walking around with these clothes you could write down the number and then look the owner up on his personal Skim.com page.

More in Next Nature.

Lifting the Veil Using a ‘Bluetooth Burqa’

Can a burqa be sexy? A Berlin-based artist has invented a digitally-enabled robe that will send an image of a woman’s face — or anything else — via Bluetooth.

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A burqa may not be the flirtiest garment ever invented for women. The highly modest head-to-toe robe even shrouds the eyes, so for centuries it’s been difficult for women wearing them to send suggestive signals to men.

But now a German designer has debuted a digitally-enabled burqa that can broadcast a photo of the wearer to nearby mobile phones. Markus Kison calls it the “CharmingBurka,” and says it isn’t forbidden by Islamic law.

A model demonstrated a prototype of Kison’s garment at the Seamless 2008 design and fashion show in Boston, a high-tech fashion event run with support from the Masschusetts Institute of Technology.

Kison says the burqa has a “digital layer” that incorporates a Bluetooth antenna, which lets women “decide for themselves where they want to position themselves virtually.” Nearby mobile phones that also use Bluetooth will light up with any small file a woman chooses to broadcast as her identity — a photo, a cartoon, a text file or even a sound clip.

Kison’s broadcast technology started as a marketing tool; the so-called “Bluebot” system is meant to send digital advertisements to passing phones. But Kison’s new design turns a burqa into a walking MySpace page.

A broadcasting burqa may not be explicitly forbidden by Islamic law — since most interpreters of Shariah have never imagined such a thing — but certain Islamic governments have tried to clamp down on electronic flirting. By 2002 it was so common for teenagers in Saudi Arabia to send each other pictures of themselves by phone that an import ban was imposed on camera phones. But demand was so high that the law was lifted two years later.

Call for Papers, Posters, Panels, Demos, Tutorials and Workshops at ISWC 2008

ISWC 2008, the twelfth annual IEEE International Symposium on Wearable Computers, is the premier forum for wearable computing. It will bring together researchers, product vendors, fashion designers, textile manufacturers, users, and related professionals to share information and advances in wearable computing. We invite you to attend ISWC 2008 and submit to one or more of the following categories: papers, posters, demonstrations, exhibits, tutorials/workshops and panel discussions. This year we are also placing special emphasis on cell phones as they have become the most successful wearable computer to date; and we solicit papers on:

* Mobile applications designed for cell phones
* Cell phones as personal computers
* Extending cell phone hardware e.g. sensing, novel IO, modules
* Studies based on cell phone deployments (especially large scale)
* Cell phones that combine short and long range radios
* Composable computer systems based on cell phones

Additional core topics for ISWC submissions include, but are not limited to:

Applications:

* wearable systems in consumer, industrial, medical, wellness, educational, and military domains.
* wearable computing in fashion and smart clothing, for people with disabilities, and for elder enablement.
* use of wearable computers as components of larger systems, such as augmented reality systems, training systems and systems designed to support collaborative work.
* formal evaluation of performance of wearable computer technologies, and comparisons with existing technologies.

Hardware:

* wearable system design, input devices, wearable displays, actuators, electronic textiles, and batteries.
* interactive and industrial design.
* wearable sensors, and networks for sensing context-awareness or cognitive state.
* techniques for power management and heat dissipation, and manufacturing issues.

Software:

* architectures, including systems that allow wearable computers to exploit surrounding infrastructure.
* operating systems issues related to wearable computing, including issues such as scheduling, security, and power management.
* networks, including wireless networks, on-body networks, and support for interaction with other wearables, ubiquitous-computing systems or the Internet.

Human Factors:

* interfaces, including hands-free approaches, speech-based interaction, sensory augmentation, haptics, and human-centered robotics.
* user modeling, user evaluation, and interfaces for combining wearable and ubiquitous computing.
* social implications, health, and privacy issues.
* wearable communities and wearable technology for social-network computation, visualization and augmentation.

Submission:

Papers and posters must be submitted electronically through the submission website. Initial submissions are due on April 21st. Papers and posters will be fully reviewed. Authors of accepted submissions will have the opportunity to update their submissions based on the reviews before the final electronic copy is due.

ISWC 2008 requires electronic submission. Reviewers will be instructed to maintain the confidentiality of all materials for submitted papers throughout the entire reviewing process. Submissions should contain no information that will be proprietary or confidential at the time of publication.

Beginning of the end for laddered tights

The imagination is the only limit for a new material that can mend itself when ripped. In hospitals it could add durability to artificial bones and around the house it heralds the prospect of unbreakable glass and unchippable paint. But for half the population there is no disputing its most tantalising promise: the era of the self-repairing laddered stocking may be upon us.

A research team has created an elastic substance that can mend itself as much as a week after being broken thanks to its arrangement of molecules. The torn ends are simply pushed together and allowed a little time to bond. After 15 minutes the join can be as good as new.

“I think it will have all sorts of uses,” said Professor Ludwik Leibler, one of the researchers behind the invention. “It’s just a matter of using your imagination. We have only just begun to think of what can be done with it.

“Stockings are a very good idea. It could be used in glass vases so they don’t break when your children knock them over - it could make the glass bouncy.”

Professor Leibler and his colleagues at the Industrial Physics and Chemistry Higher Educational Institution in Paris are convinced that it has potential for use in a wide range of applications. They are most hopeful of adapting the technology in medicine, where self-healing properties would be invaluable for artificial bone and cartilage.

The technology could also be applied to paint and other coatings, saving householders and car owners the expense of repairing chips and nicks. Its use in pipes would make plumbing repairs easier, perhaps sealing leaks before they became serious. The substance, which has taken five years to develop, is ready for commercial use, Professor Leibler says. This is expected to be in plastics.

The material mimics the elastic qualities of rubber but with the advantage of having “sticky ends” when a break occurs. The substance has small molecules arranged in a network that stretch but will return to its original shape. Once the broken ends are pushed together they start healing because the molecular make-up is such that the surfaces have lifelike attributes and seek to form bridges.

The research team reported their invention of the “supramolecular rubber” in the journal Nature. “These materials can be easily processed, reused and recycled. Their unique self-repairing properties, the simplicity of their synthesis, their availability from renewable resources and the low cost of raw ingredients bode well for future applications.”

They added that the material behaved like a rubber but “exhibits unique self-healing properties: when a sample is broken or cut into pieces and the pieces are brought into contact together for some time at room temperature (20C, 68F) they self-heal without the need to heat or press strongly. The process of breaking and healing can be repeated many times.”

The maximum time the ends can be left before it becomes impossible for them to repair themselves reduces as temperatures rise. At 23C they can be left for more than a week but at 40C the time falls to 48 hours. The longer the surfaces are left to fuse, the stronger the repair, but even after 15 minutes of bonding the material could still be stretched to three times its normal length before snapping.

Dissolving Fashion

bioIn a comment on our disposable culture, fashion designer Helen Storey is using know-how from materials science to make a show of frocks that dissolve slowly in water. Her six dissolving dresses, made from biodegradable polymer threads, are being publicly drowned in LCF Fashion Space Gallery in London. Storey has long harboured concerns about our attitudes to waste and recycling, and during her career has woven plastic refuse bags and reused rags to make boas and evening gowns. To realize her idea of evanescent products, such as packaging that disappears as its contents expire, Storey contacted chemist Tony Ryan, of the University of Sheffield, UK, after hearing him on the radio. Their Wonderland collaboration has produced new textiles and several patented products, including a water-purification device, a biodegradable bottle and orthopaedic shoes.

Via new-nomad.

Social Fabrics: Wearable + Media + Interconnectivity

Social Fabrics: Wearable + Media + Interconnectivity is a time based exhibition designed as a modified runway show of art as wearable media and technology. Social Fabrics demonstrates convergences between individual expression and statement making, on the one hand, and the phenomenology of “network society” on the other. Technological garments or accessories with social capabilities are presented alongside works that, while perhaps not employing technology outright, comment or critique the implications of our digital media-infused and fashion driven lifestyles. Submissions are objects, (garments, handbags), systems (hardware, software), and, in a few cases, mini performances that interact in various ways with the event context. Artists included come from all over the United States and several countries abroad.

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Artists:
Teresa Almeida; Margarita Benitez; Joey Berzowska and Di Mainstone; Kathy Bruce, James Cook, and Alastair Noble; Rachelle Beaudoin and Jeanne Jo; Geraldine Juárez; Matt Kenyon; Younghui Kim; Sarah Kettley and Frank Greig (Speckled Computing Consortium); Daniela Kostova and Olivia Robinson; Heidi Kumao; Ebru Kurbak, Ricardo Nascimento, Fabiana Shizue; Anke Loh; Cat Mazza; Ryan McCabe; Kristen Nyce; Anne-Marie Skriver Hansen; Hoyun Son; Suzi Webster and Jordan Benwick; Chris Wille

WHEN: February 22, 2008 - 5:30 PM

WHERE: Adam’s Mark Hotel, 400 North Olive Street, Dallas, TX Remington Room (4th Floor)

ACCESS: Free and open to the public (Note: the CAA Annual Meeting Closed Sessions are NOT free, but admission to Social Fabrics is a free Special Event of the conference)

A publication entitled Social Fabrics and including a catalog of works in the show is available at and after the event as a special print issue of the online journal Intelligent Agent.

The t-shirt that sweats

The T-shirt that sweats, by Mariana Rivera. Sweat, a natural phenomenon present in most forms of life, is usually regarded as unpleasant and something to hide in most western countries and in America especially. There is one exception: futbol (soccer, football) T-shirts. Considered as a fetish object, a sweated T-shirt worn by one’s favorite player is considered of great value.

T-Shirt That Sweats proposes to provide the football supporter –who couldn’t attend the match but follows it from afar, on his or her tv– with a more intimate contact with the action that takes place on the field. The project could thus enrich and expand the communicative power of the tv set through a t-shirt that sweats according to the sound levels of the TV screen during the game.

Working prototype: a microphone captures the sound signals coming from the tv set. The sounds are then filtered using a microcontroller. When the sound goes beyond a certain level, a water pump hidden inside the garment wets the t-shirt. Programmed using Arduino.

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1935: Electric Glove for Police Stuns Victims With 1,500 Volts

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Modern Mechanix 9-1935: More punch than can be found in a box-glove is contained in a new electric glove invented by Cirilo Diaz of Cuba for use by police while handling rough characters or in quelling riots. Persons contacted by an officer wearing the glove receive a 1,500-volt shock, sufficient to remove all traces of fight. A half-pound battery worn on the belt supplies the power, all wiring being concealed beneath the coat.

Police officials in New York where the device was first demonstrated, were favorably impressed by its effectiveness.

Via modern mechanix.

Powerful Piezoelectric Fabrics

Georgia Tech researchers have taken an important step toward creating fabrics that could generate power from the wearer’s walking, breathing, and heartbeats. The researchers, led by materials-science professor Zhong Lin Wang, have made a flexible fiber coated with zinc oxide nanowires that can convert mechanical energy into electricity. The fibers, the researchers say, should be able to harvest any kind of vibration or motion for electric current.

manmko

The zinc oxide nanowires grow vertically from the surface of the polymer fiber. When one fiber brushes against another, the nanowires flex and generate electric current. The researchers described a proof-of-concept yarn in a paper published this week in the journal Nature. They show that the output current increases by entwining multiple fibers to make the yarn.

By the researchers’ calculations, a square meter of fabric made from the fibers could put out as much as 80 milliwatts–enough to power portable electronics. The development could make shirts and shoes that power iPods and medical implants, curtains that generate power when they flap in the wind, and tents that power portable electronics devices.

In 2007, Wang and his colleague the 2007 TR 35 winner Xudong Wang (no relation) built a zinc oxide nanowire array that generated direct current when exposed to ultrasonic vibrations. The piezoelectric nanowires stood on an electrically conducting substrate that acted as an electrode. The other electrode was a platinum-coated silicon plate with parallel peaks and trenches carved on its surface. (See “Nanogenerator Fueled by Vibrations.”) When the ultrasonic waves pushed the electrodes together, the nanowires bent and produced current.

In the new work, the researchers have substituted the rigid, zigzag electrode with a flexible one. They convert some of the bendable fibers into electrodes by applying a thin layer of gold to them. These gold-plated fibers act as flexible electrodes.

The researchers entangle a gold-coated fiber with an uncoated fiber. When the fibers are pulled back and forth with respect to each other, the individual gold-plated nanowires push and bend the uncoated nanowires, generating current.

The flexibility of the fibers brings the idea of wearable, foldable energy sources closer to fruition, says Charles Lieber, a chemistry professor at Harvard University. The flexibility is also crucial for harvesting energy from extremely small ambient motion, says Thomas Thundat, who studies nanoscale biological sensors at Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Entwining the flexible fibers, he explains, leads to very close contact between the gold-coated and the uncoated nanowires. As a result, small motions, such as a light wind or walking movements, make the coated and uncoated nanowires brush against each other and generate current.

“The idea is ingenious,” says Min-Feng Yu, a mechanical-science and engineering professor at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. “It’s like you have millions of nanogenerators outputting electricity simultaneously, each at maximum performance.”.

The generator’s ability to capture small movements makes it especially useful for powering biological sensors, Thundat says. Microscale sensors can be implanted in the body to measure such things as cancer biomarkers and glucose. But chemical batteries are bulky compared with the tiny sensors, and they have a limited lifetime. “Implanted sensors based on [the fiber nanogenerator] concept could use blood pressure or muscle movement for operation,” Thundat says.

The Georgia Tech advance would not be possible without the simple but highly innovative process the researchers have used to make the fibers, Lieber points out. Zhong Lin Wang and his colleagues first cover a polymer fiber with a 100-nanometer-thick zinc oxide layer. They immerse the fiber in a reactant solution at 80 °C, which results in nanowires growing vertically from the surface. Then the researchers use a final trick to keep the nanowires firmly attached to the fibers while keeping the fibers flexible. They dip the fibers in tetraethoxysilane, a liquid used in weatherproofing and protective coatings. The tetraethoxysilane forms two coatings: one between the fiber and the zinc oxide layer, and another on top of the zinc oxide layer.

This tetraethoxysilane coating makes the fiber robust. The zinc oxide layer did not crack or peel off even when the fiber was twisted. The nanowires also stayed put after the researchers continuously brushed two fibers against each other for 30 minutes. The fibers will have to last even longer and have higher output power in order to be used practically, Wang says.

Power-generating shirts might still be out of reach for most. At this point, the fabric might be affordable for the military for use in tents and shoes, says Wang, but “it is probably too expensive for you and me to buy.”

Via nanoarchitecture.

Weare scarf

“Last Christmas we set up a screen made of fairy lights in the Moving Brands window.

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We then invited people to send messages and drawings, via a simple web-interface, to be shown in sequence in the window. The window was captured by webcam and broadcast live to the internet.

We stored everything sent to the window in a gallery, and the full sequence has been used to create this scarf.”

Via neo-nomad.

Daft Punk helmets